May 11, 2013

Marchesa magic

New York Fashion week left a lasting impression, but the one label that really caught my eye was definitely Marchesa. A trip to the sub-continent of India was all that was needed to inspire British design duo Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig for their spring/summer 2013 collection. Marchesa encapsulated all the beautiful colours, fabrics, detailing, embroidery and glamour of traditional Indian designs – and on a grand scale! The Marchesa runway show took place at a perfect setting to match their lavish designs: Grand Central Station… right in the middle of peak hour!

You may remember Vera Wang also drawing inspiration from India in her collection earlier this year. Whilst Wang used the influence to create intricate details and special features on each garment, Craig and Chapman took it to a much more literal level. The collection’s theme was “the spirit of India in the 1960s”, so that meant bringing back straight lines and sari-style drapery. It also gave a chance to showcase the wonderful beading and embroidery skills of India, and the vivid colour scheme, which presented the audience with a feel of the groovy cultural swing of the 60s.
Starting with the colours, they were varied but all appealing. It began with a bright lime then moved into a vivid peach and orange, then vibrant fuschia, red, burgundy, plum, and finally transitioning into midnight and teal blue. More simple white and gold looks were also integrated throughout the collection to break up the empowering colours and focus more on simplistic garments with quality embroidery and detailing.

Hemlines were also diverse in length, with a compilation of mini and floor-length dresses – some with trains and some even with asymmetrical hemlines. In terms of shapes, the designers kept the lines quite straight and close to the body. There were gowns hugging the body before spreading out into a fish tail covered in embellishments. Midriffs paired with maxi skirts were also popular – and now we've seen midriffs and crop tops make their way into our summer wardrobes!

The designers also allowed for a lot of draping. The chiffon dresses were draped exactly like a sarong and the gorgeous sari-inspired dresses had draping over one shoulder and were paired with golden leggings covered in jewels. Metallic shimmer added light and culture to looks involving tops, and detailed leggings and really portrayed the daring Indian fashion of the 60s.

All in all, the sparkling fabrics, embroidered garments and beautifully beaded details were used to create the wonderfully colourful and vibrant collection that are the signature Marchesa look.
Which designs were your favourite?